After about two years of delays Fatty ‘Cue (91 South 6th Street), the barbecue-Malaysian fusion collaboration between Fatty Crab creator Zak Pelaccio and Robbie Richter formerly of Hill Country, finally opened last month, and though I’m sure one of our excellent restaurant critics will pay a visit soon, I just have to spill the red curry duck: it’s amazing. The space is a strange and intriguing assemblage of three disparate rooms and a backyard where whole pigs will be spit-roasted one day soon when brunch service begins.
For now it’s just dinner and delicious cocktails (the yummy Dark and Stormy comes with a stalk of sugar cane to chew the last few drops of sweet, sweet alcohol out of), with a nice little bar in the front room and tables spread out through the rest of the space. Last night I got to try their version of brisket—delicious slivers of meat that you pile into your own slider pockets lined with aioli and chili jam—a mashed and smoked eggplant dip made perfectly tangy with some sort of fish sauce and a whole mackerel smoked and simmered in a banana leaf and paired perfectly with a sweet soy sauce.
The best dish I had, though, was a very hefty duck appetizer (or “snack” in Fatty-speak) that was perfectly spiced with red curry and tender, juicy meat that might have been the best duck I’ve ever had. The prices aren’t the most affordable—snacks are $3 to $14, specialties (meaning mains) run $14 to $22—but the food is extremely inventive and successful, and fun to eat. The pecan pie is delicious, and comes with a shot glass of heavy local cream, which is one of the richest substances you will ever consume. They also have homemade chocolate bars, which I didn’t try, but will probably merit another visit soon.