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But anyway, there aren't really going to be clear-cut winners in a conversation that's simultaneously hyperbolic and subjective. Most likely, the more specific elements of Ozersky's argument that make you take the whole thing seriously — disappointment with steak quality at St. Anselm, accusations that Buttermilk Channel is "a southern restaurant incapable of serving decent fried chicken or biscuits, [that] gets hailed as masterful, mostly, I suspect, because you can take squealing infants there and nobody will complain" — are the ones most likely to piss off purists and be largely ignored by everyone else.
So yeah, tear into him if you will. Or, just go eat at a restaurant you like and try not to worry about it. Everything is fine. We have a lot of options.
Follow Virginia K. Smith on Twitter @vksmith.