- Wine director of Maison Premiere
When the Wall Street Journal
found out last week that they were drinking wine out in Brooklyn, they couldn't help but devote an entire half-page
to an article discovering what wines are the most hipster. Were they forcing a trend piece? Let's check in with some of the sources: "I'm not sure what it means," the co-owner of Maison Premiere in Williamsburg told the Journal
. "I'm the least cool person in Brooklyn," said the general manager of Williamsburg's new Scandinavian restaurant Aska. But the paper proved him a liar! "[He] dropped many references to dining Copenhagen," the columnist writes. "No city is hipper than Copenhagen right now." IPSO FACTO, BITCH! Ok, but some restaurant people played along. Here's what a hipster wine is:
1. It's Not Chardonnay
- I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!
"When I came back from Paris, I couldn't sell a Chardonnay no matter what," the wine director of Vinegar Hill House said
. It's also not Yellow Tail, said the co-owner of Maison Premiere. Nor is it Bordeaux. "It's very hard to sell Bordeaux in Brooklyn," the wine director of Aska said. Like the phrase "hipster" itself, it's easier to say what it's not—me!—than what it is.
2. It's Adventurous! And Natural, Obscure, Special
Or, hipster wine is all hipster cliches rolled into one. The sensibility of Maison Premiere's customers is "a sense of adventure, a willingness and drive to look for new wines, new regions." At Maison Premiere, "customers are looking for natural wines," the paper reports
. At Aksa, they're looking for "a [wine] list that's full of small and ambitious producers." As Aksa's general manager said, "When you don't have the space to pack the list with big names and labels, you have to create value somewhere else—to give them something special." [photo
3. It's Cheap
"Brooklyn diners spend less money on wine than their Manhattan counterparts," the Journal reports
. We like our wines like we like our packs of cigarettes: slightly less expensive.
Follow Henry Stewart on Twitter @henrycstewart