Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Tørst: Inside Brooklyn's Best Beer Bar

Posted By on Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 9:00 AM

Page 2 of 3


There are 20 draft lines at the bar, organized from light to dark as indicated by appropriately hued wooden tap handles. Evil Twin generally takes up a few spots, of course, and there will often be one or two beers that are somewhat regularly available throughout the city—think Dark Horse Double Crooked Tree IPA rather than, say, the far more common Lagunitas IPA—but to even the nerdiest of beer nerds, many of the names will be unrecognizable. While this is certainly part of the fun, scarcity alone is not enough to compel Jarnit-Bjergsø to pour something. "People think we just want to put beers on that nobody else has, and that's not the goal," he says. "We just want to serve what we believe is best, and a lot of that is either not available in New York already, or there's just very little of it. With my connections in the beer world, I know pretty much every brewer worth knowing."

So if that's how he goes about determining and acquiring the best beers in the world, then how does he achieve the second part of his goal, the part about serving them in the best possible way? Well, that involves the Flux Capacitor, an over-the-top complicated draft system that allows him to control the amount of nitrogen and carbon dioxide flowing through each line, ensuring that every beer will have precisely the intended mouthfeel. He's also able to control the temperature of each beer being served. "If you go into a wine bar and someone served you a warm white wine that's supposed to be served cold, people would complain," he contends. "But if you go into a bar and order a 12 percent imperial stout and get it at 38 degrees, they don't say anything, and I don't understand it because it's the exact same thing. If you serve a beer like that too cold, you kill a lot of the flavors, and if you serve a pilsner too warm, it just doesn't taste as it's supposed to." This attention to detail has made Jarnit-Bjergsø something of a hero to die-hard craft beer fanatics—and made Tørst a legitimate destination for people from all over the East Coast.

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