Ramen Setagaya 


141 First Ave., at 9th St
East Village
New York, NY 10003
212-529-2740
How a noodle soup perfectly expresses the uniquely Japanese emotion mono-no-aware — sadness over the transience of beauty — I’ll never understand. But the complex shio (salt-based) broth is rich, transporting and fulfilling. If I were a Japanese salaryman…

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