Remember the dark years of the New York liquor scene? When people drank cosmos, things involving Bacardi 151 and flavored vodkas? New York liquor tastes have progressed — or really, regressed — to sophisticated vintage cocktails, herbal gin and the sweet, oak-y burn of bourbon and rye. And if anything good has come from rising oil prices, it’s Brooklyn’s newest whiskey well. Char is the younger generation’s Brandy Library — a respite for the seasoned sipper seeking bourbon instead of Scotch, more affordable booze and Brooklyn instead of Manhattan. The bar’s opening may signal Smith Street’s official rise into boutique-dom, but unlike the Library, strong opinions on hedge funds and cufflinks aren’t required to gain entry. At least for now. Bret Stetka