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The Frito pie is high five-worthy. Ours was served right out of its snack-sized bag, which was split through the Frito’s logo and butterflied open so the corn chips could be smothered in tasty Texas red chili, complete with hearty chunks of brisket, and topped off with cheddar cheese, onions and sour cream. The dry-rubbed, slow-smoked brisket was caramelized, fatty, kissed with smoke and spice, and so tender it fell apart without need for a knife. (The acidity of Morgan’s pleasantly tangy barbecue sauce cut through the fattiness of the brisket, but the meat had plenty of flavor on its own.) Our hefty pork ribs had a charred crust but the meat melted off the bone, smoky and rich. We had no complaints about the mildly spiced pork sausage, but we might pass on it next time and just order more ribs. The smoked turkey was as surprisingly juicy and flavorful as our server promised, but the lean poultry felt like a dieter’s delight alongside the other, more-succulent heaps of meat. We rounded out the meal with some solid sides: a cool potato salad smothered in a creamy mayo-based sauce; satisfying and slightly sour collard greens; a hunk of sweet, cake-like cornbread; and some creamy, no-frills mac n’ cheese.
Morgan’s group-friendly space is dressed in wood and corrugated metal. A Texas flag hangs from the beamed ceiling, and a flatscreen TV and a neon Shiner sign glimmer behind the angled semi-circular bar, which is lined with about 15 stools. At lunchtime, the sunshine that fills the barroom and the picnic tables out front contribute to the Austin atmosphere of the place, even though they’re on Flatbush Avenue. Another plus: from 11pm through closing, they offer a late-night menu featuring sandwiches, tacos, smoked queso and that killer Frito pie. Remember this the next time you and your friends are leaving an event at the nearby Barclays Center, and you can count on high fives all around.