Inakaya 


New York Times Building, 231 W 40th St, between Sixth and Seventh Aves
Midtown East
New York, NY 10018
212-354-2195
inakayany.com
Inakaya is somewhere between a Disney-fied take on a dream Fellini once had about a Japanese frat initiation and an excessive bull-market Japanese mega-restaurant of 2005 (En, Megu, Matsuri, etc.), populated by lunatics in toe-socks, manning those paddles, minding the robata grills. And it's not bad.

The overly broad menu seems an anachronism, culled from a much larger restaurant, but an exquisite meal can be had, for a price, and delicacies we don't often see on these shores can be enjoyed. Jeff Harris

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