The Panchan, small plates served gratis at the start of a meal, were the most varied I have ever seen, from the expected kimchi, seaweed, salad, tofu and various pickled vegetables, to things I’ve never seen served free: spicy tofu stew, an omelet in a hot stone pot and Japanese-style fried fish. A seafood pancake appetizer ($9) was an elegant dish, though it was not served before our main courses. Studded with shrimp, squid and scallop, the pancake’s texture was perfect, barely greasy and loaded with spring-fresh scallions.-Jeff Harris
