In Provence, it’s common to see outdoor cafés packed with patrons admiring the pot-bellied men tossing steel balls on a nearby dusty pétanque (French bocce) court. The drink of choice for this casual spectator sport is a canary-colored beverage native to Provence called pastis. It’s a black, licorice-flavored liqueur that, when mixed with water, turns pale yellow and curiously cloudy. The traditional mixture is one part pastis (about two ounces) and five parts cold water. Even though pastis is meant to be a refreshing drink, a respite from the sun and heat, the French say adding ice is a no-no. If you must, make sure you drop the cubes in after you’ve mixed the pastis and water to avoid crystallization.
Pastis is actually related to absinthe, which was banned in France in 1915 because it made some imbibers do some very bad things. Posters from that era supporting the ban feature crazy-eyed absinthe drinkers fighting in bars, pulling knives, and choking their wives. I guess that kinda says it all. After absinthe was outlawed, distillers like Henri Pernod got smart and released a legal version of “the green fairy” without the hallucinogenic wormwood oil. And that, children, is why today’s pétanque players are throwing balls in a civilized manner as opposed to “tripping balls” on the court.
The two pastis brands most commonly sold here in liquor stores are Pernod and Ricard, though you might come across a bottle from a smaller producer like Henri Bardouin. Any pastis would complement the Downtown Chef’s mussels, but Pernod is the most logical match because it’s already an ingredient in the recipe. Whichever brand you choose, be prepared to pay about $25-$30 a bottle. Oui, it’s expensive, but you have friends. Ask them to chip in.
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