Perbacco
234 E. 4th St, between Aves A and B
East Village
New York, NY
212-253-2038
Hours: Mon-Thurs 5pm to midnight, Fri 5pm to 1 am, Sat 11am to 1 am, Sun 11am to 11:30pm
Perbacco opened five years ago, to little acclaim, as a dependable if forgettable trattorria serving a greatest-hits menu of starchy pan-Italian. Then, about five months ago, a new chef, 26-year-old Modena native Simone Bonelli, remade the restaurant as an avant-garde, price-conscious, neo-Italian destination, and the crowds have followed.-Jeff Harris
