The inviting space even includes a rarity at an Asian restaurant: a comfortable full-service bar (if you skip the specialty drinks, that is). But while the look and feel of Silom are refreshingly out of the ordinary, the menu is stale. Hewing to the kitchen sink philosophy of Thai cuisine for most of the entrees, Silom offers ten protein choices — this determines the price — served in a variety of ways (seven sauteés and five choices each of fried rice, noodles and curries). Not to say that what comes out of the kitchen is bad: duck breast with tom yum sauce had an authentic balance of hot, sweet, and sour, while green curry with fried tofu is probably the neighborhood’s best (though the pad thai is probably the worst). But there is nothing inventive — other than the practice of charging for white rice.
Silom eschews the kitsch factor that seems to define some ethnic restaurants, and it's an infinitely better experience for it. Another hallmark, of course, is the overlong menu, which it inexplicably retains. --Jeff Harris