355 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-384-5054
Rating: 3 out of 5 L's
May St. Anselm hereby be known as the patron saint of clogged arteries. At his namesake Williamsburg digs, you can get custom-made Karl Ehmer hot dogs "Newark Style" — that is, served in twos, deep-fried, and rolled in pizza bread with fried onions, peppers, and potatoes. It's a bit extreme, but at least you'll know who to pray to when all the cholesterol-laden goodness catches up with you.
Joe Carroll, owner of Fette Sau and the adjacent Spuytin Duyvil (which shares St. Anselm's backyard), is running the ship and doling out specialty offal for adventurous meat-eaters. Think beer-battered brain, marrow poppers, and fried gizzard confit. He's even got veal heart jerky. It's also one of the few places you can get pork roll without jumping on the Jersey Turnpike. If you're unfamiliar, the sausage-like meat looks a bit like thick-cut bologna and is served pan-fried. A New Jersey-born taste-tester complained that he grew up with thinner-cut pork roll, but that didn't stop him from finishing his sandwich. At St. Anselm, you've got the option of topping your pork roll with fried egg and melted cheese.
Feeling a little intimidated by the parade of meats? You can always get the simple sausage-of-the-day, served griddled or fried, with a tasty side of disco fries, doused with ricotta and white gravy. Patrons are welcome to bring their orders out to the backyard or next door to wash it down with a brew at Spuytin Duyvil, but if you're looking to coat your stomach before you start imbibing, St. Anselm's mixes up a mean egg cream and they've also got root beer on draft — perfect for frosty floats.