Start Investing in Underwear
by Laurel PinsonIt’s one of the fashion community’s little schizophrenic quirks that as soon as one season really starts to flourish, we start gabbing about the next one. That’s because our calendar is bookended by these eternally confusing fashion weeks, wherein hundreds of spring looks debut at the kick-off of fall, and vice versa. And, thusly, I come to you mere weeks after compiling the fall fashion issue to offer a preview into what you’ll be seeing in stores for spring.
Given the economic climate, it was no surprise that few designers took big aesthetic risks with their Spring 2010 collections (spoiler alert: Diane von Furstenberg’s still focusing on prints and dresses). That said, the Rodarte girls embraced their theatrical side, filling the runway with fog and green light before showing a series of warrior-looking models, complete with tribal tattoos and incredible twisted-fabric dresses. Proenza Schouler also turned out a really original series of tropical fish-inspired prints paired with wetsuit turtlenecks. Finally, proving they may become the dueling ones-to-watch each season, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs had two of the most creative and talked-about collections of the week. Though Jacobs is undoubtedly more polished in his talent than Wang, the elder designer may have finally met his match when it comes to hosting the best after-party. (Wang staged his in a Mobil gas station with Courtney Love. True.)
There were, as ever, some in-ter-esting moments: Nearing the end of the week, Ralph Lauren revealed a collection full of Depression-era looks—from Dust Bowl overalls and newsboy caps to Prohibition three-piece suits—that to many minds didn’t seem entirely appropriate. (Kitschy, yes. Appropriate, no.) And what inspired Jill Stuart to send a collection of colorful metallic 80s prom dresses (that she herself admitted were inspired by Cher) down the runway at the Public Library is somewhat beyond us. But we digress.
Invest in some seriously great underwear: It’s starting to become a joke (that, sadly, is not a joke) that the “no pants� look is the hottest thing coming off the runway. Regardless of whether you’re brave enough to rock a see-through skirt, the upcoming collections are awash with sheer panels, cutouts, diaphanous fabrics, and mesh.
Fall is to power suits what spring is to jet-set leisure suits: By now hopefully you’ve all invested in a nice pair of slouchy trousers— preferably in a lightweight fabric with a slightly tapered leg. Next season, try pairing it with an almost-but-not-quite matching jacket or trench.
Recession? What recession? Let’s wear feathers! If embellishments are any indication, designers seem to be betting that by March or April folks will be back to shopping in earnest. There were rainbow-colored feathers at Chris Benz, silver sparkled minidresses at Phillip Lim, lavish prints at Thakoon, and a wonderfully cheery schoolgirl style (involving massive bow-topped headbands) at Marc Jacobs and Peter Som. Maybe we can really dress it till we make it.
