314 Bedford Ave, 718-384-6127
Cheapest Drink: $5 Budweiser
Most Expensive Drink: $11 14-year-old Oban single malt Scotch
Overheard: “So, uhh, what’s your opinion on flat screen televisions?”
The much-touted Williamsburg restaurant DuMont, after five years of service off the Lorimer L stop, has attempted to stuff its sophisticated polish into a smaller spinoff on Bedford Avenue’s southside, with rather disappointing results.
Upon walking in, one is struck by the size of the place, wondering, (as casually well-dressed locals elbow one another in an attempt to get a better hold of their admittedly delectable looking burgers), if there is not a more commodious place just around the back or something. Sadly, there is not. But fear not, a conceptually highfashion hostess is waiting to plop you down on an uncomfortably minimalist stool. Once seated you will become aware that, with the exception of the limited view from a cafeteria-style island in the center of the tiny room, there is no place to get a good look at your fellow patrons, which, as any barhopper knows, is essential for a satisfying experience. If, however, you do make the effort to swivel away from the wall, you’ll discover that the decor is nowhere near as noteworthy as the original DuMont. It’s sort of spare Japanese meets Texas ranch house, and, although it sounds daring on paper, is in actuality a bit dull.
Never a better time to order a drink. But what kind? Unless you’re sitting at the bar in full view of the spirits on offer, you must wait for your waitress, who is currently far too busy making her way through crowded aisles with various plates of food and cocktails. Having said that, they do offer a reasonably wide variety of liquor (suitable for any cocktail you can think of, as long as you know what that is), four beers on tap and six or seven bottled, as well as a few wine choices.
For a late afternoon drink with a friend, DuMont Burger is as good as anything else you’ll find in the immediate vicinity. But for my money, I’d sooner walk to the original DuMont than make do with its ersatz counterpart.