Craving light, crisp, refreshing things, but still want to eat local and in season? This month's weather has journeyed far into late spring, making us want to throw barbecues and grill corn, but the local produce hasn't kept up to speed. Such is the paradox for the locavore. However, many classic summer standbys are well-suited for making right now, when lonely heads of cabbage and carrots still linger in markets. Some of these just satisfy that cooling effect, but can easily be made with less-summery ingredients. So break out of the soups and stew routine for what seems like a long, warm season ahead.
A heap of crisp, shredded fresh cabbage is the classic topping for Baja-style fish tacos. Fry some fillets of a local, white fish (like flounder), to contrast with this, and clutch it all in a fresh tortilla with crema to bind.