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354 Metropolitan Ave., Bklyn
gets to the heart of Texas barbecue if only for serving on shabby plastic cafeteria trays. However, pork is the main player on this menu: house-smoked parts of pasture-raised Berkshire swine from the tail to the cheeks. There isn't much fuss over sides, and vegetables are scant, but a world-class Bourbon selection gamely fills in. Vegetarians beware.