Goods Food Truck
Corner of Metropolitan Avenue and Lorimer Street
Rating: 3 out of 5 L's
The Spartan trailer shines like an aluminum beacon on Metropolitan Avenue, luring customers with the smell of sizzling beef. It was driven down to Williamsburg from Ithaca, gutted and then retrofitted with a working kitchen. Inside, Chef Alex McCrey and his crew squeeze by each other as they rush to keep up with the line of hungry people waiting outside. The trailer does brisk business in takeout, with girls in Rosie-the-Riveter bandanas—perhaps a nod to the year the trailer was built, 1946—taking orders from the window.
You can eat your food on the go, stuffing curly fries in your face as you walk down the street, as I did one shameful afternoon, or you can sit down like a civilized person in the garden, which is almost as impressive as the trailer. A wooden deck and picnic tables, surrounded by suspended leafy plants, provide a surprising amount of seating.
The first visit didn't go so well. It was a sweltering summer evening; my friend and I asked for water, only to hear that they didn't serve tap water, only bottled water. I grudgingly ordered a glass of homemade lemonade, which turned out to be quite refreshing. Our food came out suspiciously fast. The GoodsBurger should have been transcendent; it had all the right ingredients, including savory ground beef from meat overlord Pat LaFreida, a wonderfully sharp, cheddar-like cheese from Tonjes Farm in Sullivan County, plus caramelized onions and tomato, all on a soft Martin's potato roll. Yet the waiter never asked us how we'd like it cooked, and it came back, predictably, well-done —a considerable hunk of nicely charred but dry beef.
Better was the fried green tomato sandwich. Fresh slaw and gooey cheese provided the perfect foil to the slight sourness of the crisp, corn-fried green tomatoes. It was a sloppy treat that left me happily licking my fingers. The fish and chips—served with curly fries and made, thankfully, from fresh hake instead of the far less sustainable cod—was more sophisticated than most, fall-apart moist and very lightly coated in a Brooklyn Lager batter. Morning commuters can grab a homemade buttermilk biscuit, available with eggs, cheese and sausage, before 11am, while fried chicken fiends can get their fix during weekend brunch.
Sure, you can find the same kind of American comfort fare just about anywhere in this neighborhood (at this rate, Williamsburg will be as fat as Corpus Christi in ten years) but have you seen that trailer? It sure is shiny.
Goods Food Truck