The Bar: Supercore

04/12/2005 2:00 PM |

photo NORA LYNCH
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305 Bedford Ave, 718-302-1629
Cheapest Drink: $4, bottle of Sapporo
Most Expensive Drink: $39 bottle of wine
Extras: Outdoor garden, Japanese generosity
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Contemporary Japanese culture has a reputation for openness and adaptation to western civilization, particularly in the embrace of business and technology. But it’s evident that New York often takes its cue from Tokyo, from anime art, obi-style scarves and the American male’s penchant for fashionable Japanese women. Supercore is where all that’s hip in the east and west blend perfectly together. The term Japanese Tapas, in its linguistic absurdity, says enough. Wonderfully cheap but perfectly prepared small plates are as European as they are Japanese: Moroccan-cured and French-Provençal olives, avocado on toast, cold tofu, plum riceballs and a delicately light Mackerel are among the highlights, all under $5.
The beer is bottle only, and very limited, but the Onigoroshi sake is served traditionally, overflowing into the saucer as a gesture of generosity. In fact, courteousness and generosity pervade Supercore, from its bowing servers to its casual café atmosphere. It is not unusual for patrons to sit in the wooden booths reading, surfing the internet or writing for hours on end, without staff complaint. Though it has a hipster reputation, very Williamsburg, the bar’s atmosphere here on the growing but still relatively desolate south side feels slightly out of time and place; a European sensibility, a gentle Japanese touch. Along with the traditional Mexican food of Bonita, the world music of Bembe, and French-Moroccan Zebulon, Supercore is part of the pan-global renaissance of the southside.                                                                             Christopher Ludwig