354 Metropolitan Ave., Bklyn
Fette Sau gets to the heart of Texas barbecue if only for serving on shabby plastic cafeteria trays. However, pork is the main player on this menu: house-smoked parts of pasture-raised Berkshire swine from the tail to the cheeks. There isn’t much fuss over sides, and vegetables are scant, but a world-class Bourbon selection gamely fills in. Vegetarians beware.