(253 Conover St, Red Hook)
Miles from the subway and closed more than it’s open, Sunny’s sits near the waterfront on a desolate stretch of Belgian-blocked street—where it has, under various names, for the last 120 years. Its rickety, homespun interior is the model for what every hipster bar in Brooklyn wants to be, except it’s totally unforced. Sunny’s doesn’t try to be the borough’s best local bar. It just is.
Runner Up: Fulton Grand
(1011 Fulton St, Clinton Hill)
The best bar at which to do shots with the bartender at four in the afternoon the day before Christmas is, of course, whichever bar happens to be the nearby place you regularly end up at by default at slow hours. But if that bar is Fulton Grand, how very lucky for you, not least because you’ll never be able to find that Elliott Gould Jim Beam ad for your own living room.