No Reason to Mutiny: The Bounty

07/17/2013 4:00 AM |

The Bounty
131 Greenpoint Avenue, Greenpoint
4 L’s

For those of us who don’t actually spend a lot of time on boats, there’s something romantic about a storm at sea. So the next time the wind whips through the streets of Greenpoint and the rain pounds down on its sidewalks, grab an umbrella and a sweetheart and trudge over to the Bounty. This candlelighted seafood-centric spot shines during a thunderstorm, when lightning illuminates the stained glass sailboats in the transom over the door; a wall-wide canvas streaked with blue-gray brushstrokes conjures waves at your back; and a model clipper ship almost seems to rock on its shelf. Sails hang like canopies from the ceiling, and a bartender pushes sazeracs, gimlets and—of course—dark-and-stormies over a bar topped with well-worn wood as couples slide into chairs painted with a splash of seafoam green.

The chefs at the Bounty are serious about serving abundantly available seafood sourced from the wild; their devotion to sustainability shows in a short, focused menu featuring a raw bar with oysters, mussels and clams; a handful of starters and sides; and only four entrees: one whole grilled fish, one pan-roasted fillet, a pasta dish, and a burger. During our visit, the fresh, mild pan-roasted hake was crispy on the surface with perfectly soft and flaky white flesh within. It was served alongside a rich pancetta ragout, tender cannellini beans and a smear of tart lemon curd, capturing on a plate the brightness of summer. The burger, served on a house-made roll with tomato jam, mayo and red onion, was also cooked just right and came with crispy, salty fries. The evening’s selection of oysters ranged from pungent to sweet, and they were all as fresh as an ocean breeze. A cooling glass of watermelon and lime juices mixed with mint tea and spiked with rum made a refreshing elixir, and the only dessert offering—a dark and creamy chocolate mousse—made a fine finale.

But in the salad department, the Bounty may still be getting its sea legs. Our beet salad appeared as though it’d fallen victim to a ricotta salata blizzard, the half-inch of grated cheese completely obscuring ruby-red root vegetables. The Caesar was parmesan-heavy and its dressing was a bit under-seasoned, but it got a boost from boquerones (flaky and white marinated anchovy fillets). But salads are an easy thing to fix, and since this eco-conscious seafood spot makes such a solid a case for the potential deliciousness of sustainable fish, we don’t expect this ship to capsize anytime soon.

Photo by Austin McAllister